Share

How to use a multi-port valve - How many positions does it have and how do they work differently?

Last updated: 13 Mar 2026
4881 Views

Filter Operation & Maintenance

By Winwin Pool

This article is the intellectual property of Winwin Pool. Any reproduction or distribution of the content or images must receive prior permission from Winwin Pool.

Written by Preecha Sripradu
Engineer & Owner of Winwin Pool


Multiport Valve is an important component in swimming pool filtration systems. There are two main types:

  • Top Mount installed on top of the filter tank
  • Side Mount installed on the side of the filter tank

Most multiport valves come with 6 different positions. In this article, we will explain how each position works using the Top Mount Multiport Valve as an example.


1. Filter Mode

This is the primary operating position of the filtration system and is used about 90% of the time.

Water flows from the pump into the valve through the pipe labeled PUMP. The water then flows downward through the sand filter bed. Dirt and debris larger than the sand particles are trapped at the surface of the sand.

Clean water passes through the lower filter laterals (strainer arms) located at the bottom of the tank. These laterals have very small slots that allow water to pass but prevent sand from escaping. If sand is seen returning to the pool, it usually means the laterals are damaged.

The filtered water then travels up through the center pipe and exits through the RETURN line, where it may pass through additional systems such as a salt chlorinator or other treatment systems before returning to the swimming pool.


2. Backwash Mode

During normal filtration, dirt and debris gradually accumulate inside the filter tank. Over time, the sand bed becomes compacted and less effective.

The Backwash function reverses the water flow direction to clean the sand filter. Water flows from the pump down the center pipe and then upward through the sand bed.

This reverse flow lifts and agitates the sand, allowing trapped dirt and debris to be flushed out through the Waste / Drain line.

Most systems include a Sight Glass that allows you to observe the water being discharged. When the water appears clear, the backwashing process is complete.


3. Rinse Mode

After completing the backwash process, the valve should always be set to Rinse.

This step helps settle and re-level the sand bed inside the filter tank. Water flows normally through the sand, but instead of returning to the pool, it is discharged through the waste line.

The rinse process usually takes about 30 seconds to 1 minute.


4. Waste Mode

This position allows water to be drained directly from the pool without passing through the sand filter.

It is commonly used when removing heavy debris or vacuuming extremely dirty water directly out of the pool.


5. Recirculate Mode

In this position, water circulates through the pool system without passing through the sand filter.

This is useful when quickly mixing chemicals into the pool water or when filtration is temporarily not required.


6. Closed Mode

This position completely stops water flow into the filter system.

This position should only be used during maintenance or system repairs. It is not recommended for normal operation to avoid accidentally starting the pump while the valve is closed.


Shop Multiport Valves Here


Related Content
 “Salt Chlorinator Cell Housing Cracked… The Real Cause Is NOT a Bad Machine — It’s When the Unit Runs Without Water Flow!” Many pool owners experience this and get shocked…
A cracked or burst salt chlorinator cell housing is a problem that shocks many pool owners. The chlorinator appears to be running normally, but suddenly you hear a loud “pop,” followed by water leaking from the system. Many people assume the unit is low quality, but in most cases, the real cause is not the machine itself — it is when the salt chlorinator continues operating without actual water flow through the cell. Even when water is not flowing, salt water may still remain trapped inside the cell housing. If the chlorinator keeps producing chlorine from this trapped water, chlorine quickly turns into chlorine gas. The gas pressure builds up rapidly inside the housing, which can eventually crack or explode the clear plastic outer chamber. The most common situations include: (1) closing the inlet and outlet valves during pool vacuuming to prevent sediment from entering the cell, then forgetting to reopen them; and (2) running filter backwash in AUTO mode where the pump and chlorinator operate together, but the water flows directly to the waste line instead of passing through the cell. This issue is especially common in models that use electrode-type water sensing, which can be inaccurate when water is trapped but not flowing. The best solution is choosing a salt chlorinator with a real Flow Switch, such as the Laswim SR Series. A Flow Switch instantly stops operation when there is no real water flow, significantly reducing the risk of cracking, leakage, and costly repairs while extending the equipment lifespan.
How Long Should You Run an EC8 Salt Chlorinator? Hour Guide by Pool Size for Clear, Clean, and Safe Pool Water
Learn how to calculate the ideal running time of an EC8 salt chlorinator using a simple formula to maintain proper chlorine levels (2 ppm). This guide helps keep your pool water clear, clean, and safe, with practical examples for 10, 20, and 35 m³ pool sizes.
icon-messenger
This website uses cookies to enhance performance and provide you with a better user experience. You can read more details at: Privacy Policy and Cookies Policy